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Watches – News, Reviews, Brands and Releases
With Nacho having kicked off this series with his picks, its now my turn to select three watches within a 10K budget. In all honesty, I was struggling with this concept. For me, the desire for a particular watch comes first, and how I budget for it is a secondary thought its heart over mind. Im keen to know if any of our readers have five figures set aside expressly for jump-starting a respectable watch collection. In my experience, watch collecting was a journey with a bumpy start and full of mistakes. Im probably still making those mistakes now but learning a little more each time. For some, its too much risk to make a costly mistake. So, rather than deterring the curious from this cozy co [...]
The story behind my stainless-steel Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 116520 is long overdue. For good reasons, though it is a tale of both joy and woe. For those of you that covet the Daytona as the chronograph to end all chronographs, that may sound surprising. But trust me, those shades of feeling are very, very real. It took me a while to come to terms with this story, but Ive learned to embrace it now for the experience I earned through it. And now, after all is said and done, its time to share it with youAt the millenniums turn, reference 116520 saw the Daytona updated. It became the first Rolex with an in-house automatic chronograph movement. Before that, the El Primero caliber beat [...]
Somehow, this Grande Reverso wasnt shown during the presentation of Jaeger-LeCoultre this year in Geneva. However, it was on display in the lobby of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth so we asked if we could see it up close.The little sign on the plate next to the watch said that it was inspired by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso model from 1935, with a central second hand, but yet it is called the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931. In any case, this vintage looking and inspired watch is a beautiful piece that really does have that appeal of a vintage watch.Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Seconde CentraleThe Tribute to 1931 model (that we reviewed here) received some follow-up models with diffe [...]
Where does the time go? It only feels like a week or so ago that I was sat at my desk watching Rolexs presentation at Watches And Wonders 2021. That was back in March. You may recall that Rolex released an update to the Explorer II. Subtle and minor tweaks rather than something totally wild and new, but does anyone really care six months on?As with any Rolex announcement or launch, people get excited. People get very excited. Forums and Facebook groups become filled with guesses and theories about what the Crown will bring out next. March 2021 was no different. Rolex had hinted that something was happening with the Explorer. Still, nobody quite predicted the Explorer II would just get a mino [...]
Breitlings Navitimer is one of those models that is being regarded as an iconic watch. Like Rolex Daytona or Omegas Speedmaster, the Navitimer is right up there as well. The big difference is though, that I find it quite difficult to determine what the most original Navitimer is of the models available today. Breitling does not celebrate its Navitimer like Omega does with their Speedmaster, or make simply one available model like the Rolex Daytona.According to the Breitling website, their Breitling Navitimer Heritage is a commemorative model to the original Navitimer from 1952. However, this is a special edition, which makes me wonder if it is a model that is always there or that it is a tim [...]
While most Speedmaster collectors are very focused on the 1960s and 1970s, Id say that the 1980s and 1990s are also interesting for a number of reasons. To start with the 1990s, these watches are often very complete (meaning boxes, warranty card, booklets etc.) and those with a tritium dial (up till 1997) have the tendency to get this beautiful yellow-ish coloured?hour markers and the same applies for the lume?on the hands. On top, you will find that the 1990s models have this very handsome looking bracelet with reference 1479 (also till 1996) with a strong tapering towards the clasp. The 1980s also has a number of interesting models, and I am going to explain one of them for todays Speedy T [...]
Back when Swatch Group, and, as such, Omega, was still participating in the now-defunct Baselworld, we always had our first appointment with them. On the first day, in the first time slot at 9 am, Fratello was there with the whole crew. Our friends at Omega knew what was interesting to us, but, even so, the trays of watches just kept coming and coming. This is why it couldve happened that we overlooked this beauty the Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition.Two years and some change later, I would like to amend this mistake. I remembered this watch from that last meeting. I even took a wrist shot of it back then. However, after that, perhaps because the 2nd Speedy Tuesday Speedmaster, the Ultra [...]
The Lange 1 dial, with its iconic offset time and outsized date display, has become the symbol for the return of Glashutte watchmaking. For 2022, the Grand Lange 1 receives some elegant refinements for its 41mm case in either 18K pink or white gold. The manually wound movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve and wonderful decoration viewable through a sapphire display case back. The case height is the real star of this new release from A. Lange Sohne, with a reduction of 0.6mm to a thickness of 8.2mm.In either metal, the gray dial represents a stoic calmness that is perhaps needed in this world. It signifies an expression of luxury without shouting you into submission. This stern at [...]
Chronos magazine celebrates its 20th anniversary Besides their anniversary edition of the magazine (including a Vacheron Constantin supplement), editor-in-chief Rudiger Bucher selected 20 of the best watch advertisements that were printed in Chronos magazine in all those years. Chronos is part of the Ebner Verlag (publishing company) and also responsible for Uhren Magazine and WatchTime.Below, we show you the two we like best The first is one from Swatch and dates back to 1995. The one below is probably a bit more well-known and dates back to 1998. Pateks Begin your own tradition campaign has been successful ever since, as even non-watch enthusiasts seem to know this brand and its slogan.Pat [...]
About a week ago, I was able to test drive a Calibre de Cartier. Having seen it during the SAHH in Amsterdam in 2010, I was quite impressed by its specifications and masculine look, but didnt have the opportunity to try it ever since.Cartier was never that much on my radar, until I met Geo who runs the?Troisanneaux website and moderates the Cartier forum of Revo-Online. Ive learned that they are pretty good at watch making (understatement) and with their recently introduced Calibre de Cartier, they are in the same (price) league as the other big brands with in-house movements (Panerai, Rolex, IWC, Omega).Anyway, Ive tried the Calibre de Cartier and the results can be read at Watchuseeks Publ [...]
Project X Designs, famous for their customized Rolexes, is proud to present their PXD SS1 Limited edition Rolex Submariner. This watch, based on the current Submariner ref.16610LV, is a hommage to the James Bond Submariners of the 1950s Military Submariners of the 1970s. Although Bonds Submariner was less high-tech (in real life that is), Project X Designs tried to bring the look feel of that very watch by removing the crown protectors and putting the watch on a NATO strap. Most information available about the watches that James Bond actually DID wear, can be found on Dell Deatons excellent website https://www.jamesbondwatches.com/.By using the LV (Lunette Vert) model of the Rolex Submarin [...]
Yesterday, Dale Vito (a passionate watch enthusiast and dealer) from The Netherlands got robbed from a few time pieces. Although he is alright, he would like you to keep an eye out for the following watches:Rolex, Submariner Date, reference number 16613, serial number N-. Extra serialnumber engraved by hand by Heetmanunder one of the lugs 2366 605. This is a stainless steel/gold model with a blue dial and bezel. This watch was stolen with box and papers. Unusual is the fact that although the watch has an N-serial it was sold in 2003 by Rolex AD Heetman in Rotterdam.Rolex Day-Date, reference number 18039, serial number 7306123, 18ct white gold, creme (panna) dial with roman numerals and comp [...]
Big news from a small Swiss village Oris proudly introduces its in-house caliber 400.It is not the first time Oris has come up with an in-house developed movement. The brands back-catalog an already boast the Calibre 111, 112, and 113 movements hailing from the Atelier collection. But this time, Oris shows us a totally different caliber. Not one with a specific complication as weve seen in the Atelier collection, but a no-nonsense three-hander (with a date). Oris made its Calibre 400 movement available to us, to have a closer look at and take some images of it.Oris Calibre 400According to Oris, this Calibre 400 was conceived five years ago. The watch manufacturer in Holstein, not too far awa [...]
Almost identical to the Grand Seiko that won the?Petite Aiguille award in the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genve in 2014, Seiko now introduces the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGJ021 with a special dial and oscillating weight. The design of this Grand Seiko is based on the 1967 Grand Seiko 44GS. Lets have a look at this limited edition Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ021 up close.Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGJ021This is that typical example of a watch you need to see in the flesh to really appreciate it. When I first saw the press release, I didnt pay too much attention as the dial and rotor appeared to be a bit gimmicky. However, when the kind people of Seiko Netherlands offered the watch to me for a rev [...]
Its Speedy Tuesday When you buy a new Omega Speedmaster (Professional), you can either choose between a stainless steel bracelet or a leather strap. However, there are many more ways to wear your Speedmaster in a cool way. From simple NATO straps to high-end alligator straps or even using a NASA-like velcro strap. In this article we show you how you can wear your Speedmaster. The straps can really change the entire appearance of your Speedmaster, giving a new Speedmaster a vintage look or make it a very classy watch using an alligator strap.Omega OEM calf strapWe kick-off with a brown calf strap from Omega. This strap (reference 98000195) is also issued with the chocolate brown Speedmaster P [...]
The original IWC Big Pilot's Watch is a classic. But it's also an XL heavyweight that you're constantly aware of. It practically takes a giant to wear the 46.2mm original inconspicuously. The new smaller version of the BP comes in a more practical size L. And, although I don't want to give it all away already, flying on auto with the slimmed-down IWC Big Pilots Watch 43 is possible. You're only aware of the watch when you want to be and that is a massive upgrade.The new steel Big Pilots Watch 43 comes with either a traditional black dial or a more fashionable and contemporary blue variant. The big box we received at Fratello HQ contained the blue-dialed version and came with a brown and a ve [...]
Its Speedy Tuesday A few months ago, I wrote about the differences between the Speedmaster Professional (regarded as the Moonwatch) and the Speedmaster Reduced. We now have a similar watch to the Reduced, a 39mm automatic Speedmaster watch, especially for the Japanese market. However, where the original Speedmaster Reduced was equipped with a piggy back movement Omega caliber 3320, this Japanese Speedmaster reference 3513.53.00 has an Omega caliber 1152 movement, based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750.Where the Omega caliber 3220 movement is a piggy back movement (Dubois-D praz 2020 chronograph add-on module on top of the ETA base movement), the caliber 1152 or ETA/Valjoux 7750 in this Japanese marke [...]
A few weeks ago, whilst cleaning up my attic, I found a box with all sorts of watch stuff. Inside were also two discs that I received in December 2007.On there, an interview between astronaut Wally Schirra and Chuck Maddox. This interview was recorded on February 17th 2007 in Beverly Hills, a few months before Schirra passed way age 84 on May 3rd 2007. Chuck Maddox passed away a year later, on May 12th 2008, age 46. A sad day that I vividly remember, as I received a phone call from Dale Vito (Ace Jewelers) who brought me this news whilst being on a family trip in Munich.Wally Schirra was the only astronaut who flew on board of the Mercury (MA-8), Gemini (6A) and Apollo (7). As you probably k [...]
I have to admit that I had never heard about Gilt, but it is a US based luxury shopping platform. As of yesterday, theyre also selling a number of very cool watches.Friend of the show Ben Clymer of Hodinkee is the curator of the whole lot. A number of interesting pieces are being put up for sale. One of them is this cool Paul Newman Daytona, I guess it is a ref.6239 as the lot doesnt tell.Price tag, $85,000.- USD.Go Gilt, click here. [...]
With bags of goodies from LVMH hitting the market at the same time, theres a lot to choose from. The stand-out piece? The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Rescue.Take a look at these new releases from Zenith and let us know which one youd like to see covered in an in-depth review in the comments below.Zenith Pilot Type 20 Rescue 03.2434.679/20.I010Youve heard about the fact that Zenith is the only watch company actually allowed to put the word Pilot on the dial, right? You hadnt? Wow, I hope the rock youve been living under was nice. Seriously, as much as I love Zenith (and I do love Zenith), Ive repeated that fact so many times Ive started saying it in my sleep.Every so often, however, it really feels [...]