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Watches – News, Reviews, Brands and Releases
In this Sunday morning column, two of our writers go head-to-head in an epic showdown for the ages. Strong opinions and hysterical hyperbole are welcome (so feel free to join in with the fun in the comments section below). And don't forget to let us know which watches you'd like to see torn to shreds/effusively exalted next week. We'll try and feature as many of our readers' choices as we can. This week, THE classic among classics gets treated to the original mano-a-mano format. Ladies and gents, it is time for the Rolex Datejust 36 to be rated or hated.Last weeks contest between the Rolex Milgauss and Omega Railmaster always had the whiff of a foregone conclusion about it. RJ and I discusse [...]
We did an article last year on everything about a watch that wasnt the watch itself straps, bracelets, clasps, and spring bars. It seemed exhaustive in its reach (and in the writing), but it wasnt. That was the primer for the respectable, polite, middle-of-the-road people that accessorize their watches accordingly. This article, on the other hand, is downright funky. Well get to some unique strap options that are still accessible, like Erikas Originals and Bund pads, but Im going to be showing you some weird, sometimes old, truly unique options as well. It will be polarizing. Words will be said in the comments that cannot be un-said. I may be asked to never do an article like this again. Jus [...]
Finally, its my turn to step into the arena. Ive enjoyed taking a backseat so far in the competition and watching the track-based carnage unfold, but Ive got to say, Im excited to buckle up for what is sure to be a thrilling race to the finish. Maybe, just maybe, Im doubly excited because I actually think I might win this. Why am I confident? Check out my picks: the Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 44.25mm 329.32.44.51.01.001 and the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster 86010M. Both are stunning watches, but there is one clear favorite (in my opinion) when it comes to snaring the crown of the greatest modern racing chronograph.For my money, very few of the watches my [...]
When Longines introduced their Legend Diver a few years ago, it came in two flavors. A date and a non-date. At some point, Longines decided to only continue with the date version.Sure, Longines has its Skin Diver without a date, but thats not the same. I was very happy and a little bit surprised to see that the Longines Legend Diver in bronze has no date. I am not really in favor of date windows on a watch (exceptions exist of course), so I am biased anyway. We did a Wrist Game Crying Shame article on a Legend Diver No Date and you were brutal as well though, 78% voted for the Legend Diver without a date. Now, they make one again And it is in bronze!Longines Legend Diver BronzeWhat we have h [...]
Chopard is a brand that I truly believe is criminally overlooked in the watch landscape today. But for over 25 years now, the brand better known for its jewelry has taken phenomenal strides in truly in-house watchmaking. Chopards first manufacture movement, caliber 96.01-L, debuted in 1997 in the now-legendary L.U.C 1860. The 3.3mm-slim foundational caliber boasted a micro-rotor, double barrels, COSC certification, and the Geneva Hallmark for its immaculate craftsmanship and finishing. Since then, these four characteristics have become a signature of many of Chopards jaw-dropping high-horology creations. And now, at Watches Wonders 2022, the brand finally brings them all to its flagship spo [...]
To commemorate the 80th anniversary of their Big Crown Pointer Date watch, Oris introduces this (stunning) bronze 40mm version of that watch, with a green dial.The story of the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date watch goes back to 1938 when Oris developed a watch with an?oversized winding crown for pilots. Very useful when wearing those leather gloves being high in the sky, and you need to set your watch. The date indicated by an extra hand, also known as a pointer date.Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In BronzeInterestingly, the Big Crown Pointer Date has been in the collection forever it seems (or at least since 1938, and Oris was founded in 1904). I write this, as it was exactly this model that also [...]
Speaking of Constellations (see post below), last weekend I visitted my grandfather and he told me he was quite happy with the accuracy and new looks of his Constellation. Some years ago, before the watch got a complete overhaul, I wrote a small essay/review on his watch. Next time I visit him, I should make a new picture of his watch. The dial is cleaned up and the crystal and case are bright and shiny again.Anyway, the review can be found here. Mind you, it is dated (2001) and the pictures are made with a digital camera which probably is even cheaper nowadays than a leather strap. [...]
Watch design is without a doubt one of the hardest forms of design to master. Watches are small objects and come with a long list of aesthetic and technical requirements. In its essence, the watchs design always has to be serving the wrist of the wearer and the movement that powers the watch. That combination of aesthetics and technique makes watches fascinating, to begin with. But what happens when industry outsiders get involved in the art of watch design? Time to check out some of the creations from renowned architects and find out if we can learn from them.For me, watches are about aesthetics first and foremost. No matter how impressive the movement is, if the watchs design does not move [...]
I am very proud to present to you, the first ever (real) pictures of Ian Flemings watch and the exhibit interior, published on the internet. Below, you will see an excerpt from the press release, a picture?of the actual watch that Ian Fleming wore and used as inspiration for his James Bond novels and a picture of the exhibit room. Note that pictures of the museum nor the watch have never been published before. Taking pictures inside the museum is strictly prohibited.From the press release:?Ian Fleming's personal James Bond watch is not kept wound while it's on display as part of the increasingly popular Bond Watches, James Bond Watches exhibit.So when attendees arrive for the special Bond [...]
RogerCP (a TZ regular) wrote a nice review on the Omega DeVille Co-Axial GMT. It is a 18 karat ros?? gold version, but thats not even the argument why I think it is special. The watch is only 35mm in size. Thats smaller than the average mens modern wrist watch.Picture by RogerCPThe review is quite in-depth, not only on the movement (caliber 2628, which is based on the famous co-axial movement caliber 2500, which is based on ETA 2892-A2 again. Or did I forget to put the Omega caliber 1120 in there as well?), but also on the case, dial, hands, strap, deployant clasp and last but not least the GMT watch as such (and links to some other GMT related articles as well).Anyway, click here for a good [...]
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo watch is the darling of many watch journalists. Not only because of its thin case or the micro-rotor movement. But also because Bvlgari is doing some different from the other luxury brands. The design of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo is attractive and somewhat off-the-wall. A lot of brands are on the re-edition train, but not Bvlgari.Last month, we reviewed the stainless steel version and I explained why I think it is so great. Also compared to the other luxury steel sports watches out there from established brands, the Bvlgari Octo Finissmo watch stands out for me. The watch I have here today is the rose gold Bvlgari Octo Finissimo watch. On a leather strap. I am not [...]
Although not officially part of the Geneva Watch Days event, Panerai decided to open its doors to the traveling cartel of journalists and retailers to take advantage of the sudden influx of industry professionals over the 26th-29th of August 2020.We kicked off Thursday with a visit to the Panerai boutique in central Geneva. As it turned out, it was quite a revelation for all of us (RJ, Bert, Mike, and me). Many Fratello team members have owned Panerai watches in the past (and some still do). However, I do not, have not, and have never seriously considered it. Until now, that isThe closest I ever came to buying a Panerai, was buying horrendously cheap imitation cases to play with during my wa [...]
Most watch complications are related to our actual whereabouts. Take the chronograph, power reserve, and alarm or minute repeaters as examples. I?always found it fascinating that the GMT presented a?complication that referred to the events or reality related to you, just happening in any far corner of the world. Today we look at my favorite vintage GMT watches.?I?like simple solutions. That's why I?prefer Rolex ref. 1675 from 1959 to the ref. 16750 introduced in 1983. Pointing to its primary feature, which was an extra GMT hand, the later GMT Master II ref.16710 allowed it to be set independently. That resulted in the possibility to read not two, but three time zones.Rolex GMT-Master 1675 1 [...]
For many, the 18th century watchmaker represents the forefather of Haute Horlogerie. A visionary who, albeit was not born into a watchmaking family thanks to his stepfather picked up the trade and revolutionized it.In 1775, after marrying his fianc e, C cile Marie-Louise L'Huillier the newlyweds set up their home and watchmaking company in Paris, at the Pont Neuf C a stone throw away of the Notre Dame. Since that date, Breguet has been creating some of the most exquisite timepieces the watch world has seen. They are constantly breaking boundaries while keeping the elegance of each timepiece. Whether it's a highly complicated watch with tourbillon and perpetual calendar like the Classique Co [...]
Wrist Game or Crying Shame has returned once again with a period piece that might make you say, hold your horses. The original Piaget Polo is in focus today. But before we go into battle with Prince CharlesLast week, I thought Id try to appeal to your sentimental side with the platinum Swatch Tresor Magique. The comments section gave us some great memories and even an owner or two. Sadly, just 38% of you wanted to revisit the early 90s and that means that this watch definitely did not flatten em with platinum. Today, well switch to the original Piaget Polo and that also means a change to gold. In this case, theres a lot of gold and, lets be honest, thats almost always positive.The Piaget Pol [...]
The discussion of genderless watches has never been stronger than it is now. Whether its because of the articles or current political and social trends impacting each industry, the conversation appears here to stay. Will the concept of a genderless watch industry revolutionize the way we see and wear watches? Personally, I hope not. I dont see gendered design as problematic as long as the right to choose remains.How can we treat all sexes more inclusively and realistically? In a world where people express themselves through social media, different styles, and choices, authorized dealers and brands need to reorganize the brick-and-mortar store experience. A genderless merchandising model is t [...]
Typically, I bring a specific theme to Pre-Owned Picks to focus my choices to a brand, era or watch type. A theme can be a healthy challenge that uncovers some interesting watch listings that would otherwise pass me by. Luckily, the search and favorites functions of Chrono24 make sifting through the vast library an absolute breeze. Even after a year of covering Pre-Owned Picks, many watches fell off my lists. Either by disqualification from the theme or not demonstrating the traits of appealing to a mass audience. These watches did remain on my wishlist, however, for a rainy day.As luck would have it on this day, at least in my area of Ol' Blighty, it's raining hammers and nails. Of course, [...]
Wow. Just wow. Even after all this time, after the thousands of watches that have passed through my hands and over my wrist, it is still possible to have my breath snatched from my throat. I didnt think I cared for gold watches. I guess I was wrong again. Congratulations, Grand Seiko, the SBGW258 60th Anniversary model has officially turned my head.I think its about time we started reviewing some truly terrible watches so you get the chance to see the uglier side of my character. All this syrupy loveliness is wearing a bit thin. But Im afraid theres nothing for it when it comes to the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Recreation SBGW258. Its just too good.I believe GS has delivered.It is understa [...]
CHRISTIE'S GENEVA AUCTIONFollowing my review of the Phillips watch auctions last week, my brother (Roy) and I took a look at Christie's upcoming auction catalog and had the pleasure of viewing the watches with Thomas Perrazi in Geneva. Thomas and the team have focused on vintage versus modern in recent auctions following a global trend from collectors. In regards to the team, we also had the pleasure of seeing Marie Stauffer at Christie's as she has just moved over from Sotheby's (part of a pretty common game of musical chairs among auction houses). Along with Sabine, Marcello and Richard, the Christie's Geneva watch department team is solid and has put together a great catalog with a large [...]
Whether you like the Omega a Swatch MoonSwatch collaboration or not is of no importance to the topic of this article. We even have supporters and opponents within the Fratello team (although most of us want one), and that's all fine.In past years, at watch shows be it the previous digital Watches And Wonders or the deceased Baselworld exhibitions Rolex was the first place to go for many watch journalists, editors, and retailers. The curtains went up (I kid you not, there were literal curtains) at noon, and you'd see a crowd in front of the windows trying to catch a glimpse of the novelties. It was quite the spectacle to witness. Truth to be told, in my first years attending Baselworld, I was [...]