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Watches – News, Reviews, Brands and Releases
Colors have become a bit of a thing in watchmaking over the last year or so. This is something I am very much for. Colors are fun, and watch collecting should also be equally as fun, therefore watch collecting should be colorful. Im not a mathematician, but that makes for a pretty compelling argument in my books The new Zenith Spectrum series is a perfect example of this.Some brands have embraced this comeback with arms wide open, and Zenith has to be commended for being one such brand. The Swiss brand has happily used colors in various ways across its DEFY line in the past few years. Weve seen colored ceramic cases and different colored dials, and even movements. Weve mainly seen blues, gre [...]
Already during the Apollo mission, Omega came up with new and interesting Speedmasters for future use by NASA.All these watches were using the Alaska codename, in order not to wake up the competition during. The Swiss watchmaking industry is a small world and when some of the competition resides in the same (small) Swiss city, even a late night bar or restaurant visit can be tricky. Thats why brands like Omega like to use codenames for special projects. For everything concerning NASA, Omega used the codename Alaska. Already during the days of Apollo, Omega created Speedmaster variations using this codename (heres the white dial Alaska, and heres the white dial Alaska II, for example).Now, if [...]
Our friends at Chronos24, the Polish watch portal and blog, just published a very nice review on the Baume Mercier Capeland Chronograph Flyback. As you know, Baume Mercier was one of the nicest surprises for us during the SIHH 2013. Although theyve sent us pre-SIHH press releases, you have to see watches in the flesh before you (we) should judge.Anyway, check-out this thorough Baume Mercier Capeland reference 10068 review written by ?ukasz Doskocz. Yes, it is in English. Photographs are done by Micha? Grygalewicz. Photos can be clicked for larger images. [...]
Today, we're back with a look at yet another Rolex and this time its the Datejust 1600. So soon, you say? In some ways, think of this article as a prequel to my recent ode to an incredibly simple Datejust 16200. The two watches are similar for certain, but they're also very different. Sit back because it's time for another love letter to a wonderful watch.Oh, Datejust, you wily little daily driver with your countless variants. You are a nonstop adventure that ranges from the sublime to the subdued. As an individual watch, you offer so few clues as to how you started life. What dial shipped with you decades ago when you were first purchased? Have you been polished or have years of shirtsleeve [...]
I continue to see progress at Antiquorum Geneva. The level of watches has seen a step up in this catalog and they already had some great results in their most recent Hong Kong sale. There is no massive pocket watch collection this time around, which is a relief for me as well. Overall, the outlook has been good ever since their separation with Antiquorum New York and I hope they keep up the good work.I had an interesting discussion with Julien Schaerer, Managing Director, during my early preview visit in Geneva. I was, again, curious about the massive size of this catalog. Just to clarify, when I say large catalogs I mean they regularly have 500+ lots in their sales and others like Christie' [...]
Oris has slowly but surely been equipping more of its watches with movements from the in-house Calibre 400 series. Earlier this year, we did see the bronze Divers Sixty-Five Carl Brashear that featured the Calibre 401 and a small seconds sub-dial. Now, the time has come for Oris to release the first Divers Sixty-Five with the standard Calibre 400. It comes in the shape of a khaki dialed, 38mm limited edition piece. Time to find out more about the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cal. 400 Limited Edition For Hodinkee.Things have been busy in the small Swiss town of Holstein over the last 12 months. Oris has been focussing on releasing a great variety of watches. Here at Fratello, we even had the pleasu [...]
A timepiece that has been produced in your year of birth, seems to be an all-time favourite wish for many watch collectors. Ill have to admit that I once almost pulled the trigger on a Speedmaster Professional from my year of birth (1977). However, after a phone call to the seller in France to discuss last details, it seemed that this watch was not made in 1977. One of the inscriptions on the inside of the case back clearly stated that this watch was produced in 1978. Bummer.I can have more luck with a Rolex from my year of birth, however, the prices of these vintage beauties are becoming annoying. Just a few days ago, I noticed that friend of the show Henrik over at SubGMT has a Rolex Subma [...]
This year, Cartier is celebrating the 100th anniversary of their Tank watch. Created by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the (then) new Renault tanks that were used at the front during WW1. Based on this design, Cartier has made beautiful variations; the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Ame?ricaine and the Tank Franc?aise.Cartier Tank is a LegendThe Tank design has been copied by many, but theres only one original of course. The Tank is a rectangular watch, but not exactly, as the sides (also referred to as brancards) are a tad bit longer than the center part of the case. It allows the strap to become part of the overall design of the watch. Most Tank watches are characterized by having Roman [...]
About a month ago, we introduced to you the Omega Speedmaster Alinghi. I read a lot of comments on the fact that a Seamaster wasnt used for this partnership, and I get that. However, Omega sent us a Speedmaster Alinghi for a hands-on review, and here are my thoughts about the watch. And the partnership.Omega introduces this watch as a special edition. Meaning there is no unique number on the case, aside from the serial number. That means this watch will be in the collection for a certain (unknown) amount of time. My guess is that it is more or less the same as with the Speedmaster Tintin, although there was no partnership there (as we know all too well). Perhaps this watch will be in the col [...]
No need to get your hands dirtyMy fascination with cars started at an early age. Matchbox cars were diligently arranged in neat rows. No collisions took place for fear of scarring the paintwork. Boxes were carefully stored, a trait I continue to uphold in adult life.A psychologist would read the first paragraph and diagnose Obsessive- compulsive disorder from a pre-school age. I have always fussed over the minutiae. Small details have always been excessively valued. It is probably this fascination for fine details which has fuelled my obsession for haute horology.Ironically for someone with such a predilection for the mechanical, I have no aptitude for the hands-on fettling of oil clad compo [...]
Last week, we were invited to join IWC on this beautiful location at Kasteel de Hooge Vuursche to have a look at the new IWC Ingenieur Chronograph collection. Although we already saw them earlier this year in Z1rich during the Passione Caracciola (report can be found here), we wanted to have a closer look.Goodbye GentaFrom what we understood during the presentation, IWC is moving away from the famous G|rald Genta design for their Ingenieur collection. Instead, they want to come with an Ingenieur collection that is based on their 1955 Ingenieur reference 666 model. The IWC Ingenieur Chronograph collection they presented to us are the first step in that direction. Not entirely true, as they di [...]
At last year's SIHH Montblanc presented the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, providing a complication that is also known as a Rattrapante. This watch comes in a vintage design and with a movement in a typical traditional layout. The finishing of this movement is breathtaking. The actual sensation about this watch is its price.If you lurk around watch forums you frequently read about grail watches or even exit watches. Some unfortunate watch addicts try to make you believe that if they were able to obtain that one specific (and only) watch, they would be happy for the rest of their life without needing any other watch. Unfortunately, the nature of addiction is a different one. You know what I m [...]
Let me start by saying that there's a clear difference between what I want, and what I can afford. But I guess that this applies to most of us. Therefore, I think that it is better to create a watch wish list that is somewhat realistic. Perhaps not tomorrow, or even a couple of months from now, but at some point, I would definitely like to own the watches on this list.Truth to be told, for a few years now, I havent had that craving that I used to have when it comes to buying watches. I already own or have owned the watches I truly wanted. Only rarely does something come into my path that I want to add to the collection. It is a very relaxed and peaceful feeling; I must admit. But sometimes I [...]
Mille Miglia 2013Chopard has been partner of this famous (and beautiful) Italian rally since 1988. Every year, Chopard introduces a sporty Mille Miglia limited edition to commemorate the rally. This year, Chopard showed us the Mille Miglia 2013 timepieces when we were in Basel visiting the biggest watch exhibition in the world.Chopard is not only a family-owned business by the Scheufele family, they also share another passion: the Mille Miglia. This passion for the Mille Miglia is shared by Chopard's Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his father, Karl Scheufele III, Honorary President of Chopard. Karl-Friedrich Scheufeles wife sometimes accompanies him as well as a co-driver.The Mille [...]
Parmigiani is still a young brand, yet the build quality of its watches is nothing short of astonishing. The watches coming out of the brands Fleurier workshops exceed the standards of high-end icons that sell for far more. In fact, Parmigiani has built complete watches for some of the most praised high-horology brands. Parmigiani itself, however, is still is more of an insiders tip. The restrained marketing of the past surely played a part in that. But Parmigiani has resolved to change this by appointing Guido Terreni as CEO, and the new Tonda PF collection that originated under this new management has created quite a stir. The signature model of this new collection is the Tonda PF Micro Ro [...]
Weve been here for 15 years, and covering many vintage watches in all those years. However, since 2014, we have our TBT feature with a dedicated focus on vintage watches.Based on the most popular articles in our tbt category, we present to you the top 10 vintage watches overview here on Fratello. As you will see, it is mainly Seiko and Rolex dominating this overview. Why is there no Omega? Well simple, we try to allocate all of the (vintage) Speedmaster content to our Speedy Tuesday section (and only publish on Tuesday about them). If you want to have an overview of the best read Speedmaster articles, or Top 10 Speedy Tuesday articles, click here.Top 10 Vintage WatchesWe have covered dozen [...]
Thats one of the advantages being a watch journalist: wearing so many different watches. More than one reasonably could have ever have bought. This week is no exception. I am able to try the Omega Constellation Globemaster in stainless steel and Sedna gold.Omega Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mmA serious model indication, isnt it? It seems to me that Omega is proud about the specifications of their watches, and theyre eager to let you know them. This two-tone Globemaster is a serious watch as well however.Whos afraid of gold and steel?Personally I've never been afraid of gold and steel (two-tone) watches, and a few of them are always in my collection. There are even [...]
The Breguet Type XXI 3815 is a colorful addition to the already existing vintage-inspired Type XXI 3817 that was introduced in 2016. The Type XXI has its roots in a larger and more complicated iteration of the famous Type XX. Breguets Type XXI 3815 comes in two different colors orange and green and we have both.The Breguet Type XXI 3815TI/HO/3ZU (orange) and 3815TI/HM/3ZU (green), are limited to 250 pieces each, so 500 in total. The new Type XXI we have here looks similar to the Type XXI 8515 but uses a 42mm case made of titanium. By using the vivid green and orange on the lacquered dial of the Type XXI 3815, the watch becomes a bit more of a contemporary version of the classic Type XXI. But [...]
Boring goes a long way. As a kid, I wanted nothing more than to eat pancakes every day. One day, my mom couldn't handle my nagging any longer and made me pancakes in the morning. And in the afternoon and the evening too. Guess what? The next day, the kitchen smelled like pancakes again. And I was done. I wanted toast. What do pancakes have in common with the best boring but brilliant watches in the world? Well, a watch with an exuberantly, multicolored dial is a pancake. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, with a black one, is the toast you can have any day and every day.The good thing about fresh toast is that you can dress it up with sweet or savory stuff. And even just with a litt [...]
The design of the Submariner 114060, is unmistakably Rolex, despite the size and use of modern materials such as ceramics. Compare the modern 114060 to the 1953 Rolex Submariner 6204 and you will immediately notice that these watches share the same DNA.Owning and wearing a Rolex Submariner is one thing, but to dive into the history of this watch is quite a task. To make it somewhat easier for you, we hereby show you the history of the Submariner in a nutshell, including a table with most important references since 1953 till the current line-up of Submariner watches.Diving Into Rolex SubmarinerThe Rolex Submariner is a watch with an interesting story. Introduced over 60 years ago, the current [...]