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Watches – News, Reviews, Brands and Releases
Cartier's presentation at the SIHH in 2013 was for me personally an important one, since the Rotonde Mysterieuse was introduced and the Santos Dumont Skeleton in pink gold was launched. Two watches that I absolutely adore. Both of them had amazing features like the floating hands of the Rotonde Mysterieuse and the transparant movement of the Santos Dumont Skeleton.?Just now a few days before the SIHH 2017, Cartier pre-announced a new Rotonde Mysterieuse that excels the current version.?Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Hour Watch The 2013 Rotonde de Cartier Mysterieuse It excels because?it is even more mysterious than its predecessor. Cartier managed to bring two of the Maison's grail w [...]
Creating a best-of list is always a nice challenge, especially when making a list of affordable mechanical watches. The number of watches that could be on the list is enormous, so we have set up a list of 11 of the best watches under 1000 Euros currently available.We made a Top-13? list in 2016 that you can find here and a lot has changed since then. Several new brands have popped up that have made some serious watches within the 1000 Euros price bracket and some of the top watches on our previous list have gone on to have list prices that are now above the 1000 Euros mark. So we had the chance to update the list to give you an idea of the many options that are out there under 1000 Euros. Th [...]
About a month ago we drove to Switzerland to visit a few watch brands. One of these brands was TAG Heuer, located in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Since our publication of the TAG Heuer Carrera CH80 review, a lot of things changed. Jean-Claude Biver, interim CEO of TAG Heuer and head of LVMHs watchmaking division decided that it was time for a change at TAG Heuer. In short, Jean-Claude Biver has set a clear focus on affordable TAG Heuer watches in the range of $1,500.- $5,000.- USD (~ 1225,- 4000,- Euro).A very competitive and interest price range we think. Not only because some other big brands increased their prices over the last few years so much that they are not competing in the < $5000 USD p [...]
Last year, Rolex surprised us with a sudden novelty drop. While cynicism surrounding the Crown and its supply chain (or lack thereof) exists, the new designs were themselves rather neat. The Oyster Perpetual models brought us color and class, while the new Submariner brought us the kind of evolution the brand is known for. Subtle tweaks and minor updates were the orders of the day. Now, as the calendar ticks over to the first full year of having these Rolexes in the catalog, Im taking my first look at the brand new Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN.I got the chance to see this one in the metal recently. Ive been mulling over it ever since. Cards on the table: Ive never been a huge fan of the mo [...]
I remember my dad walking around the house, winding the antique clocks on the walls when I was a kid. I think practically all of them had Roman numerals marking the hours. At that time, I never noticed what kind of four they used. I didnt bother checking whether it was a subtractive IV or an additive IIII the latter of which is also known as the watchmakers four. But since I often wear my Cartier Santos Galb��e XL, I started wondering where the IIII actually came from. So, I decided to look it up on the big interwebs.Now, please dont expect any final answer on the origins of the watchmakers four at the end of this article. What I found is that there are many stories about where the IIII on wa [...]
In part 1 youve read that during our readers journey to Japan, weve been visiting the Grand Seiko manufacture in Shiojiri. In that location, we witnessed the creation of Grand Seiko and Credor models, using their Spring Drive and 9F quartz movements. We also had a workshop in polishing cases in the zaratsu style and applying indexes on the Grand Seiko dials. Grand Seiko made sure that we not only got a tour, but also received a couple of masterclasses to show how difficult some of the skills are.Grand Seiko Readers Journey Part 2After our first days in Tokyo and Shiojiri, we had a day off on Wednesday. Needless to say that most of us went watch shopping. Tokyo has some interesting places to [...]
Anything Grand Seiko does seem to be a winner. But not everyone is ready to spend 6000 on a Snowflake or 6500 on the Mt. Iwate. What does the pre-owned market have in stock for you, when it comes to Grand Seiko?Truth to be told, the pre-owned market for Grand Seiko isnt overly huge. It has partially to do with the relatively low production number of Grand Seiko watches (estimated 40.000). But it might also have to with the people who buy these watches, that these arent considered flippers and buy a Grand Seiko because they want to enjoy it for a long time. As a comparison: Audemars Piguet also has an estimated production of 40.000 watches per year (different pricepoint, I know), but only Chr [...]
Watch designer Genta designed a number of watches that turned into icons. Best example is the first stainless steel luxury watch he designed in 1972, the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet. Later on, he repeated this with his Nautilus for Patek Philippe and the Ingenieur for IWC. All these watches are being referred to as Jumbo, as they were considered to be HUGE then. Today, we seem to be laughing at 39/40mm diameter watches. One of the readers of Fratellowatches, Martijn, has two of Gentas cult watches and sent me some photographs.The IWC Ingenieur SL1832 Jumbo is part of Martijns collection of IWC watches. Recently, he added a white dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo that has been produced a [...]
On the 30th of October 1972, Gerald Genta (then having an important assignment for Audemars Piguet) filed a patent in the United States for his master piece, the Royal Oak. From what I read, he already documented this design in Switzerland on the 6th of December 1971.As you can see in the drawing below, is that the famous bezel screws of the Royal Oak are not aligned in the round direction of the clock. Perhaps it did not matter for this patent registration, or it has been done on purpose to show that the screws would actually work. This drawing should be reflecting the first AP that made it to the flesh, the ref.5402ST a.k.a Jumbo.The patent of Gerald Genta/Audemars Piguet is easy to find i [...]
Ive written quite extensively on the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36,000 movement before and indicated that it could (as I think many of us hoped it would) become a new cornerstone of the brands catalog. Today, with the official announcement of the new platinum-cased Heritage Collection Series 9 SLGH007, we get to see the 9SA5 in action once more. The only danger with this release? That youll be too bewitched by that beautiful black dial to noticeThe Heritage Collection Series 9 SLGH007 watch is a special piece. Sure, it features one of the brands most impressive movements. Yes, it has an artful dial. Of course, it is fashioned from platinum. But what is perhaps most important about the Heri [...]
TCStraps always used to be a great source for Panerai straps, however I just discovered that they have a great selection of Panerai watches now as well. Maybe I am just late, but I never saw so many watches for sale before on their web site.If you are in the fortunate situation to be able to purchase a (or more) vintage Panerai, definately take a peek over there.For the people who are longing for some White Dial Love, TCStraps (TC stands for Time Connection) also has this one (PAM3B) for sale for 4150 USD: [...]
If a book to be written about the history of German watchmaking from the beginnings until today, and a watch to be selected for the cover the result would be simple. Unequivocally the A. Lange Sohne Lange 1 would take that spot. I can't think of any other timepiece that had such an impact on the industry as a whole than this one model.The Lange 1 was and still is the design inspiration for dozens of other brands. The technicality of the movement, albeit not the most complex, is the blueprint for movement designers. The status of the Lange 1 is unquestionable, and it just so happens that this very icon is celebrating its 25th birthday this year. Yes, only 25 years since the Lange 1 emerged f [...]
Ever since the introduction of the stainless steel Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN, people have been craving for a version with a Pepsi bezel. When Rolex introduced the white gold version in 2014, reference?116719BLRO, the craving became more intense than ever before. This BaselWorld, Rolex showed us the new steel Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 126710. With a Jubilee bracelet. Thats right, the new Rolex GMT-Master II reference 126710 comes on a type 69200 bracelet. And thats basically the only option for this watch, as an Oyster bracelet will not even fit the new case of the new Pepsi GMT-Master II.Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 126710New SpecificationsThis new Rolex GMT-Master II is different fr [...]
I am enjoying a blue periodPablo Picasso, the iconic Spanish painter created a series of paintings between 1901 1904 referred as his, blue period. This epoch of the artist's life was reflected in sombre paintings employing predominantly blue or blue-green hues.Picasso was said to be suffering depression during this period and his choice of subject matter included images of beggars, prostitutes and drunks. Picasso was disturbed by the death of his friend, Carlos Casagemas.The pictures painted during the blue period were not popular at the time. Their cheerless depiction of dolent aspects of life, did not find favour with the public or buyers.Today, like many of Picasso pictures they are high [...]
Welcome to todays edition of The Fast And The Fratelli. Im making it easy for myself and adding two contestants with vintage vibes to our competition. Vintage style is still incredibly hot. In the days those vintage-styled watches refer to, mechanical chronographs and racing were inextricably linked. You read it in the title: Sinn is going to confront Zenith here. Sinn has a reputation regarding tool watches, which is what were talking about. But how could that German brand have any chance against a more than 150-year-old Swiss watchmaking heavyweight? Well, read on to find out!The goal is simple, and so is the race. During The Fast And The Fratelli Grand Prix, its up to you to elect the bes [...]
Welcome back to Wrist Game or Crying Shame, the weekly series that aims to make all of your New Years Resolutions come true This week, we take a look at the Omega Speedmaster Reduced, reference 3510.50.00Fear not, Mike fans. Im not taking-over this column permanently. Im just standing-in for everyones favorite bargain (or not) hunter for one week and one week only. So what have I decided to put to you during my time in the hot seat? Ive chosen a model that has given me some sleepless nights. Is it a quiet classic? Is it an unfortunate misadventure? There are strong opinions on both sides, so Im turning it over to you, the Fratelli, to make a sound judgment. I bring you the Omega Speedmaster [...]
New Panerai releases are always a guilty pleasure for me. Whether its new materials, colors, or sizes, the bold brand always comes through with something that I like each and every year. Today, we break down a trio of new divers, the Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro collection.The Submersible models are the true divers in the Panerai lineup. With their rotating bezels and more impressive depth ratings, the watches do battle in the crowded luxury diver market. They compete in a way that only a Panerai can. Submersibles utilize the locking crown and bring big, beefy dimensions or at least they always did the latter up until 2017. When the Submersible debuted in 1998, it was 47mm. Theyre sti [...]
SIHH was just two months ago and yet we have again something awesome and new from Panerai, the PAM00968.The Italian-Swiss manufacture is releasing a new model today; the Panerai Submersible Bronzo PAM00968. As you might remember 2019 is the year of the Submersible for the brand. Their SIHH line-up only consisted of said models, some of which weve already featured for you. You can find those articles here and here. Today, however, Panerai is introducing a watch to the market that we have not seen in Geneva this January. The Submersible Bronzo PAM00968 isnt the first but the latest Panerai that comes in a bronze case. 2011 was the year when the brand came out with their first bronze case watch [...]
The dust clouds have barely settled after Watches Wonders 2021, where Bvlgari introduced another record-breaking marvel. The all-new Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is the seventh record-breaking Octo Finissimo. While this breaking of records is without a doubt spectacular and does wonders for the reputation of the brand, in the end, its all about having people buy your watches. Without a doubt, the one Octo Finissimo to end up on most peoples wrists is the Automatic version in steel. But another great option is the titanium Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. I had a chance to go hands-on with it to find out how good it really is.Back in January, I also wrote the introduction article for the [...]
Given the central role Bvlgari played in the organization of Geneva Watch Days, it may not be fair to attempt to summarize the brand's efforts in such a short post, but given that we'll be dedicating separate posts to the major releases in due course it's worth outlining our immediate takeaways of what was a really fantastic event.Jean-Christophe Babin is a force of nature. That's a description often (correctly) used to describe the other JCB, but it is just as appropriate for Bvlgari's energetic CEO. I had the opportunity to sit down with him for the best part of an hour. We talked about Geneva Watch Days and Bvlgari's new releases. As you will see from the video interview we have on the wa [...]
