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A Brief Overview of Gerald Genta - Designer Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak And The Patek Philippe Nautilus

You have probably heard the name G rald Genta countless times if you have an interest in watch design. His name is synonymous with two of the most successful wristwatch lines in the modern era; the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Numerous iterations have spawned from these core designs. And in the case of Audemars Piguet, the Royal Oak is the cornerstone of the brand's design DNA, even 50 years after its birth.So how did it come to be that two of the holy trinity Grand Maisons ultimately owe these successes to not just one designer, but the very same man? To understand this, you first have to understand the man himself G rald Genta, a legend of 20th-century Swiss [...]

Rolex Daytona jubilee bracelet

Hannes posted a photo of his Rolex Daytona (ref.16520) on a Rolex Jubilee bracelet at Das Rolex Forum. Although I prefer a Rolex sportswatch on an Oyster bracelet, it seems to be suitable for the more formal dress code ??Click here for more pictures.Update: The Rolex Daytona jubilee bracelet conversion. The Rolex (Zenith) Daytona meets the 62510H bracelet. New photos from the archive!Were going through our articles from the past and try to update them every now and then if possible. When looking at this post I realised there are some similar photos in our photo archive.The Rolex Daytona Jubilee bracelet conversion. Ever wondered how your Daytona looks on a jubilee bracelet? These photos show [...]

This Week in Watches: January 4, 2020

Happy New Year and Welcome to This Week in Watches for January 4, 2020.? Were glad to be back for our second decade and to bring you some news that just might help you break that New Years resolution to stop buying watches.? Ha, good luck with that!Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer DateFirst up on This Week in Watches is a piece that actually came to us a few weeks back.? But, its been a busy time since then and we figured it was a fun watch to kick off the new year.? Oris sent us news of a new hue for its 40mm Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date.? Up until now, weve had the dark green version thats called the 80th Anniversary piece and one doofus (thats me) who threw an oxblood dial on his to make so [...]

The Omega Speedmaster Watch Buyer's Guide - Part 1

In 2021, Omega updated the iconic Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with the caliber 3861 movement. A very good reason to update our Speedmaster Buyers Guide as well!This guide dates all the way back to 2014, and since then, a lot happened. Not only did we have our own way with Omega and the two Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday watches (in 2017 and 2018), Omega also introduced a number of interesting Speedmaster watches to the collection. What about the Speedmaster Calibre 321 from 2020, or the new Moonwatch Master Chronometer models in gold? Time for us to update this Speedmaster Buyers Guide.In this Speedmaster Buyers Guide, we give you an overview of the most important references of the Speedm [...]

Episode 37: Fratello On Air - Supposedly Rare And Exclusive Watches

This time, Balazs and Mike welcome a very special guest from the icy North. Fellow Fratello member Jorg Weppelink graces the mic alongside the duo with his thoughts on the current trend of supposedly rare and exclusive watches.Yes, we touch on a topic thats top of mind for many watch collectors and thats this idea of rare and exclusive watches. We have so many questions Is it foolish when we call a watch such as the Submariner rare? Would we snap up a steel Rollie at retail? Do we think this current trend of finding scores of supposedly unobtainable watches on the grey market is a bit ridiculous? What do we think about burgeoning brands like MING or Unimatic that purposely limit production? [...]

What Do I Need All These Watches For? A Collector's Conundrum

When my grandfather took a bath or even washed his hands, he would take off his Omega Constellation. It had some water resistance, but he just didn't risk it. He bought that watch around his 50th birthday and took great care of it. I imagine he would smile with bemusement at the size of my collection, but also with the oddly idiosyncratic way in which I interact with it and, in no small way in my mind, justify the presence of each and every watch thereinHow times have changed When I take a bath or wash my hands, I do take off my Moonwatch, I admit. But only because I am exchanging it for the Ploprof 1200M, or some other hulking diver that seems up to the occasion. It seems that for each task [...]

Thoughts On The New Rolex Releases - Watches & Wonders 2022 (Live Pictures)

The new Rolex releases dropped a few days ago, and that means that weve had a fair amount of time to digest the news. On March 30th, I penned an article with the basic specifications and some off-the-cuff thoughts. Now, for better or worse, you get to hear my unvarnished opinion on these watches. As always, we invite you to agree or differ in the comments section*Sigh* Another year, another batch of new Rolex releases. The last time I bought a brand-new Rolex at an AD was in 2014. I walked into a certain shop in Frankfurt, casual as all get-out (South Florida to the core here), and was suitably ignored for about five minutes while I pretended to browse the showcases. Finally, a bored salespe [...]

A Closer Look At The New Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Watches

The watch everyone came to admire at their booth this year was the Baume Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar. It is a beautiful watch, easily the most photographed one in their booth at SIHH 2019.However, let's not forget the fact that their Clifton Baumatic collection received an extension with 5 new other models (6 all together, including the perpetual calendar). The basis of these new models is two features: the introduction of a red gold case and a gradated blue dial. So far, the Baume Mercier Clifton Baumatic models only came in a steel or two-tone case. The dial options were white or black. With the new releases from Baume Mercier in 2019, this is about to change for the bet [...]

Hands-On: The Titanium Grand Seiko SBGJ255 Vs. The Steel SBGJ201

In 2022, Grand Seiko celebrates the 55th anniversary of its famous design language, known as the Grand Seiko Style. This particular style came to life in 1967 with the introduction of the 44GS case. This celebration calls for a limited edition from the Japanese manufacturer. Meet the Grand Seiko SBGJ255, the latest Hi-Beat GMT addition to the brands Heritage Collection.If this watch looks familiar to you, theres a good reason for that. I had to look twice when the press release came in from Grand Seiko, as it looks a lot like the reference SBGJ201 that I bought back in 2018. Besides taking a closer look at the new Grand Seiko SBGJ255 limited edition, I will also do a side-by-side comparison [...]

Download the Toolwatch App

Weve been following the Toolwatch guys since their early start and they did a great job in creating a tool to measure the accuracy of your watch. First via their website, but now theres also the Toolwatch app available in the Apple Store and Play Store (Google).Checking the accuracy of your watchFor most of you watch enthusiasts out there, accuracy is an important aspect of your mechanical watch. The chronometer (COSC) standards is one way to guarantee the accuracy of a watch (down to -4/+6 seconds a day on average), but it is only valid for 5 years and perhaps -4 seconds a day still isnt good enough for you. Also, the chronometer testing and certification only applies to the movement itself [...]

Wrist Game or Crying Shame: IWC Ingenieur SL Jumbo

Welcome back to Wrist Game or Crying Shame, the online fun fest that allows you, the reader to decide whether a given watch has been naughty or nice.? This week, we take a look at an original 70's IWC Ingenieur SL Jumbo.? Let's see if it's too round to get down the chimney in your house right before the holidays But before we begin?-Sigh.? Just when I think I'm trying to do something creative and bring you a real surprise, you shoot me down.? Last week, I tried to make things colorful during this oft-gloomy time of year with the tri-colored Rolex Day-Date Tridor.? That 12,950 Euro watch went down in a ball of fanciful flames as it lost support with a 55/45% loss in favor of the Crying Shame [...]

This Week in Watches - March 7, 2020

Another week has gone by. It turns out not even James Bond is immune to the Coronavirus. But in happier news, a raft of new watches hit the market. With many new models, Grand Seikos 60th-anniversary celebration really took off this week. Were keeping you in the loop on that with our various articles on the subject. But we havent forgotten the other novelties and news as well. Enjoy some of it grouped here in This Week In Watches.CWC T20 QuartzIn 1980, the British Ministry Of Defence released a tender specification for the first quartz watch issued to all branches of the British forces. While the tonneau-shape case? employed by the 70s mechanical models was specified, the early Swiss quartz [...]

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 - Why I Bought It Back!

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 was my first sports Rolex back in 2003. After owning it for over 10 years, I decided to trade it for something else. Only to come to the realization a few Rolex sports models later that the Sea-Dweller is, in fact, the one for me.When I started taking my first steps into the world of watch collecting in the late 1990s, I had to learn everything from scratch. Magazines like Uhren Magazine, Chronos (later WatchTime), and websites like TimeZone, taught me a lot of the things I know about many brands, including Rolex. Although the prices (and availability) were much more attractive at the time, being a student, purchasing a Rolex was quite simply out of the question.B [...]

Dave Lists His Top Four Travel Watches - Grand Seiko, NOMOS, Chopard, And MING

Its been a long time, but travel is slowly starting to open up again. After not stepping on an airplane for 18 months, I have found myself arranging four trips to three different countries in a relatively short period of time. Different countries mean different time zones, and Ill be straight up in admitting that I lack the basic memory skills to remember time differences. With that in mind, I have recently found myself frequently looking at travel watches the perfect tool for those who travel and want a convenient way of keeping track of time wherever they may land.Travel watches come in many different shapes and sizes, from the instantly recognizable world-timers to the traditional and som [...]

Speedy Tuesday - Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon 311.92.44.51.01.003

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon: a long awaited black version of the famous Speedmaster watch was introduced during the BaselWorld 2013 exhibition (as we reported here). The delivery of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon watches took a while, and still not every retailer has them in stock.So, after more than one year after the introduction of the Dark Side of the Moon lets see if we are still as enthusiastic about the watch as we were during Baselworld 2013.Omega Dark Side of the MoonWhen I first laid my eyes on the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon I was immediately sold. There was a long wish for an all black Speedmaster. Although there had been a couple of PVDed Speedmaster [...]

Matthias Breschan, RADO CEO, Talks With Robert-Jan Broer Of Fratello

Just before the news hit us that Matthias Breschan (Rado) will be the successor of Longines CEO Walter von K?nel, I had an interview with him. Although things are slowly getting better here in Europe, we still had to use a Zoom call to do the interview.Times are a-changing, and the Swatch Group is endeavoring to change with them. Shuffling the positions of power within the group was a nice move. Different perspectives are always welcome. Mattias Breschan will bring his experience and enthusiasm to a post recently vacated by the long-serving von K?nel.Interview with Matthias BreschanBreschan has been working for Swatch Group since 2000. He has been president of Rado since 2011 and will become [...]

Fratello On Air: Watches To See Upon Reopening - Rolex, Lange, Breitling, And More...

The last year or so has certainly been special, but now that things are reopening, its time to get back out there. Perhaps youve read Fratello like crazy, but have you been able to try on any of the great watches that came out over the past 12 to 18 months?Finally, the reopening is here. Sure, in places like the USA or Japan, they never truly closed. However, some folks have waited to head out until feeling comfortable. Here in Europe, stores were closed for something like six months!The great reopeningThe trio is back Balazs, Jorg, and Mike talk about watches from the past year that people should try in person. Balazs goes fancy and lists a Lange as one of his favorites. Jorg picks a tough [...]

March Mania Sweet Sixteen - Omega Vs. Patek Philippe And Grand Seiko Vs. Audemars Piguet - Vote Now!

March Mania marches on When we started the competition, we had 96 watches. Now were at the stage when the last 16 will be scythed in half to leave just eight still standing. At that point, the writers will have just one watch remaining each. So today, for the very last time, the watches that started in the preliminaries together will go head-to-head for the division champion crown. Where will your votes fall?Were at the business end of the groups now. Gerard and RJ both have just two watches left. We need you to pick your favorite in this quick-fire round. Tomorrow we will have the last two competitors from Mike and Tomass groups before Ben and Bert step into the fray on Wednesday. Then, the [...]

The Fast And The Fratelli - Shootout Round: Brandon's Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Vs. Rob's Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Master Chronometer

And were back with another shootout round of The Fast And The Fratelli Over the last few weeks, weve seen fire and flames. Weve seen both some close wins and complete and utter destruction. Its our contest to find the best racing chronograph, and if you aint here to race, take your gas back home Today, Carl F. Bucherer takes on Omega in an underdog story for the annals of horology. Can the young Manero Flyback leave a Speedy in the dust? That is up to you, so dont forget to vote!I can hear the maniacal laughter coming all the way from Germany. Robs oh-so-obvious pick must have him feeling pretty haughty. And to be completely honest, I dont think I really blame him. His Speedmaster contender [...]

Dent No. 1508 Marine Chronometer

Earlier this week I had a short but interesting mail exchange with Nick, owner of https://www.clockmaker.com.au/. He pointed this article out on his website, regarding the Dent 1508 Ship Chronometer.For collectors with a passion for accuracy, ship chronometers might interest you!Nick writes:Dent No. 1508 Ships Chronometer, signed Dent, 82 strand LONDON. Purchased by Admiralty in March 1841. Used as navigation instrument on HMS Virago 1847, HMS Plover 1869, HMS Sattelite 1886, HMS Carysfort. Serviced in 1879 Cape Observatory, 1895 Cape of Good Hope, 1895 by Mercer (famous Marine chronometer himself) , 1902 in Sydney, 1919 in Liverpool. Sold by auction in 1920. In private collection since [...]